Custom Suits

Custom Suits

Custom Suits

Custom suits is an American term that is used to describe a tailor-made suit that is in essence the equivalent of an English full bespoke suit. So it’s really only a slight difference in the terminology but in reality customs suits are bespoke suits.

For quite a while I used to visit the USA several times a year to measure and fit American clients that required my bespoke tailoring. I used to visit New York for 3-4 days, and then I would often fly down to Atlanta where I would stay usually for two days. Because I am a cut and make tailor It got to the point where I was struggling to service two fronts, namely the UK and the USA. My trips got the point that in my last year of visiting America I was over there five times which sounds quite glamorous, but in reality it was five weeks that I wasn’t actually cutting or making anything back home in the UK.

However, that said, I used to really enjoy visiting my clients overseas and some days I do miss hopping over the pond. I am rather lucky though to still have quite a few American clients that I still make bespoke suits for, the difference nowadays is that my US clients tend to fly into London for business or pleasure where I will then meet them and deal with any of their tailoring requirements while they are here in the UK.

Custom Suits

So, here are a few pictures of a suit that I am making for one of my American clients. The cloth is a lovely blue/black pick and pick, it really is a stunner and very classic in weave and style. This particular bespoke suit is for a New York client of mine that is a lawyer.

Custom Suits

This picture shows the lovely blue colour this pick and pick cloth has.

Custom Suits

This picture shows the strong roll I have given the coat lapel.

Custom Suits

This picture shows the hand made breast welt pocket. Can you see the delicate hand stitching along the top edge and down the sides ?

Custom Suits

This picture shows the trousers. Can you see the hand stitching down the side of the pocket ?

Custom Suits

This picture shows a close up of the smooth tailor made pocket jets and the real horn button on the trouser hip pocket. You would think this is a completely different cloth from the pictures above. It’s amazing what difference the light has on this cloth.

Custom Suits

This picture shows the tailored pocket flap I have made for the left forepart front.

4 replies
  1. Marc
    Marc says:

    Your jacket welt comes up really nice and clean on the edge. No D-tack I see (though I’m only assuming it’s finished), so I wonder how you are the securing the ends? If it;s a trade secret, tell me to bugger off.

    Reply
    • Desmond Merrion
      Desmond Merrion says:

      Thanks for your comment Mark.

      Ref ‘D’ tacks, they are placed on jetted pockets at the front and back. The breast welt is normally tacked either just at the top corners, or as I do all the way down both sides with a delicate hand stitch on the front of the welt, as in the picture.

      I personally also catch the back of the welt down both of the sides with a much more substantial stitch on the pocket bag side. This doesn’t show through onto the outside, right side, of the welt pocket.

      I hope this answers your question for you.

      Des.

      Reply
  2. Marc
    Marc says:

    Fast reply!. My mistake, I meant the jetted pocket in the last photo. The jet is so superbly melded into the surrounding cloth. I just wondered what was holding the edge without the D-tack. It’s still basted so I guess it was just waiting for the finish.

    Reply
  3. Desmond Merrion
    Desmond Merrion says:

    Ah yes, the jetted flap pocket.

    You are correct in your first question, I hadn’t applied the ‘D’ tacks when I took that picture.

    I had made the jetts and basted the flap in place. There was no pocket bag attached either.

    The coat front is actually draped over my pressing buck, you can see it fall away, I had just pressed and shrunk the excess cloth away from the flap so that it would precisely fit the pocket jett. I apply the ‘D’ tacks when the pocket is fully finished.

    Reply

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