Des Merrion

J and J Minnis

J and J Minnis

J and J Minnis are one of the UK’s premier cloth merchants and naturally this cloth merchant, like all my merchants, are based in Gods own county of Yorkshire.

I have actually now fully finished the coat that is shown in the following pictures. This bespoke coat was commissioned by the girlfriend of a client of mine for his surprise Christmas present, he was already a client of mine so I did have in my possession his own unique personal pattern, which made my task somewhat easier. The picture below shows the cloth which a dark chocolate-brown, complex herringbone pattern with a lovely electric faint blue over check laid across. This picture shows a portion of the lapel and collar, the gorge seam, which has been very delicately hand sewn together. The cloth is of course from J and J Minnis.

J and J Minnis

Collar section of a clients coat in a cloth by J+J Minnis. The lapel and collar seam are sewn together by hand.

J and J Minnis

The next picture below shows a section of the right hand side of the coat front. You can clearly see the precise pattern matching that I have ensured I maintained with the pocket flap matching vertically and horizontally. I also really like the electric blue over check that runs over this cloth, so I decided to also carry the blue through the pocket jettings. These are the actual thin piping strips that for the actual mouth of the pocket. Apologies that the picture below is slightly out of focus, I take all my pictures with my iPhone whilst at work. They are not staged, they are simply taken ‘as is’ documenting my daily workings as a cut and make tailor.

J and J Minnis

You can see the precise flap pocket matching to maintain the cloth pattern.

The next picture below shows the right sleeve hand basted in place waiting to be fixed in place. The pattern matching has again been maintained both ways on the sleeve for my client. Cutting sleeves to match both ways is rarely, if at all, attempted by the ready to wear market and most ‘tailors’ will simply match the horizontal lines if you are lucky.

I once had a very experienced and well-respected Savile Row cutter from Huntsman’s ask me how I got my sleeves to match both ways on the particular jacket I was wearing when I met him when we went for a pint in a pub near Liverpool St Station in London…… For what it’s worth, I always try to match the sleeves both ways on every single coat I make that has a vertical and horizontal pattern.

J and J Minnis

Precise pattern matching of the sleeve vertically and horizontally.

The next pictures show a few of the other sections of this J and J Minnis bespoke coat I have recently made for a client.

J and J Minnis

Real horn buttons and real working button holes.

J and J Minnis

Back neck section showing the top collar pattern matching through the coat back.

If you would like to commission a bespoke, or semi-bespoke piece from a cut and make artisan tailor I would love to hear from you. You can call into my workroom for a no obligation friendly. Or send me an email here des@dmerrion.com or telephone me on 07871877061 to discuss your tailoring requirements.

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